Something gloomy is perceived in the air, especially under the cloudy sky that I encountered during my visit. Don't get me wrong: Triora is spectacular and one of the most beautiful villages I've seen so far.
Surely you are wondering why Triora is defined as the country of witches, I too asked myself before visiting it. You must know that in reality there is nothing ironic or funny, it is a sad story, but today in a certain sense, it is being played down.
This village, perched on the hills in the province of Imperia, between the Argentina Valley and the valley created by the Tanarello torrent, hides a terrible mystery.
Towards the end of the 16th century, some local women were accused of witchcraft and underwent one of the most famous trials held in our country, so brutal as to be named the ‘Land of witches.’
In memory of these tragic events, a festival dedicated to witchcraft called Strigora was instituted, which is held every year on the first Sunday after August 15th.
In Triora you really have the sensation that time has stopped.
You will have the perception of magic, but at the same time you will be amazed by all the beautiful landscape that surrounds you.
Today there are no more witches, but some paths have been created that lead to the discovery of the symbolic places of witches.
Triora has been awarded the Orange Flag which means it is one of the most beautiful villages in Italy.
Triora village view
In Triora there are three itineraries that can be followed to visit it: an artistic one, recognizable by its red colour, a curious blue one and one for children which is yellow.
Following the path that most catches your attention is easy. Circular stickers of the three colors mentioned above have been affixed to the cobblestones throughout the village, thus indicating the road to take.
I can say that I have visited Triora from top to bottom, but without following a precise order, thus passing from one itinerary to another.
In Triora there are so many things to see, every glimpse and every alley hides a special corner or a particular attraction.
I have particularly enjoyed the Museum of Ethnography and Witchcraft.
You will notice during your visit that there are two witchcraft museums: an older one, which you find at the entrance to the village and a more modern, recently built one, which you find further on.
I suggest you visit the older one, as it will allow you to gain even more access to the ‘mood’ of the village and above all it is much more interesting than the other one. Here you can fully learn the history of Triora, how and when it became the ‘town of witches’ and the customs and traditions of its people over the years.
Museum of Ethnography and Witchcraft
In Triora, also a visit to the castle is a must. Not much remains of the castle in truth, but only the walls with what remains of the tower, placed in the highest corner to better see the approach of the enemy.
Built entirely with stones by the Republic of Genoa to defend its borders, it has been damaged several times by the inhabitants themselves to protest against taxes.
La Cabotina is the most evocative place you can visit in Triora, nothing but the meeting point of the witches, a place that you absolutely must see. From here you can enjoy a spectacular panorama that is offered by nature.
Furthermore, in Triora, dozens and dozens of wooden doors are painted here and there in the streets and they all have a label indicating the person who decorated the door, the date of creation and the e-mail address to contact the artist.
