The downtown areas and high-end boutique strips are always decorated with attractive, creative Christmas lights and displays. The sparkling illuminations reflect in the water of the two canals in the city, highlighting the simple beauty of these waterways. The city of Milan and local governments put a lot of effort into their Christmas lights.
Another annual custom is putting up a giant Christmas Tree in the Piazza del Duomo and covering it with nearly 100,000 LEDs and decorations that light up the Milanese night. The Galleria next to the piazza also has a Christmas tree sponsored by Swarovski. It’s covered in Swarovski crystals whose sparkle is amplified by LED lights, making the already-dazzling Galleria even more festive and bright. It’s definitely a sight to see.
Originally, the Christmas tree was not the primary Christmas decoration in Italy. Because it’s a Catholic country, the presepe (or presepio) was actually the most popular. The presepe is a nativity scene that recreates the birth of Jesus Christ in miniature.
I say “miniature,” but if you go back in history, the presepe started in the 13th century with Saint Francis, who carved people and animals out of wax. He used the figurines to recreate the scene of Christ’s birth and explain the Gospel to the people of the time, who couldn’t read and therefore weren’t able to read the Bible.
This tradition was handed down and developed until the production of presepe became a thriving business. The presepe developed by the artisans of Naples in particular are made with such remarkable craftsmanship that it’s nearly impossible to walk away without buying them once you see them. More than a few people end up coming home with another piece for their collection every time they visit Naples, eventually assembling an impressive presepe for their homes.
There are two versions of the story of the birth of Christ. In one, he is born in a stable. In another, he is born in a cave. It’s interesting to see how the subtle background nuances in the nativity scene are crafted to artfully represent either version.
Once the presepe is set up to people’s satisfaction, they leave the place where the Christ figure goes empty, adding the baby on Christmas morning to signify his birth.
As a complete aside, have you ever heard of Niccolò Paganini? He was considered the greatest violinist in history during the early 19th century when he lived. He possessed such brilliant technique that people said he sold his soul to the devil for his virtuosity. Paganini cleverly used his questionable reputation to his advantage, having smoke blown around his feet as he gave performances so that it looked as if his body were magically floating.
Around this time of year, you can see all kinds of presepe everywhere—from shop windows and restaurants to street corners. It’s a wonderful time to visit Italy!
