The truffle is a precious and relatively rare underground “mold” or “mushroom” which grows spontaneously in the ground near the roots of oak trees, hazelnut trees, poplars and other symbiotic plants.
The symbiotic plants and trees are those which allow the development of truffles in perfect symbiosis.
Sought after and expensive since the times of the Renaissance courts, the truffle is one of the flagships of Italian gastronomy and Italy is also one of the major world exporters of truffles, in their two great varieties of white truffle, the most prized, and also the black one.
White truffles are rare and pricey
The aroma and intense taste of truffles are combined with the many recipes of Italian regional traditions: from Piedmont to Lombardy, from Tuscany to Umbria and, of course, they are also well-introduced in our region, given the proximity we have to the Langhe region, where the best truffles in the world are believed to grow.
The truffles are usually grated (or we better say shaved) over pasta dishes, main courses of meat (such as roasted veal), fried eggs, vegetable or meat pies or used in risottos.
Using black truffles, we make spreads, oils and many other specialties (the white ones are not used for preparations because they are very rare and pricey). The truffle in the kitchen is used raw and sliced (especially the white one) or cooked, grated or flaked (the black one).
Among the most typical dishes of the Piedmontese tradition, we can’t fail to mention the tajarin (a sort of very thin tagliatelle) with truffles, egg pasta with butter and very thin slices of white truffle.
Tagliatelle with truffles
But let’s talk about Liguria.
Here in Liguria we often cook tagliatelle with truffles but also with the addition of anchovies: the result is a recipe which combines the sea and the woods since both characterize our precious region.
In this dish, sure enough, you can “taste” the sea from the salty and flavorful anchovies while smelling the aroma (and tasting it too) of the truffle.
In Genoa, I have also seen some truffle pesto versions, a traditional basil and pine nuts pesto with the addition of truffles. This recipe comes from the idea to give a twist to the classic Genoese pesto by adding truffle and the result is a perfect and refined combination of flavors, ideal as a dressing for gnocchi or spaghetti.
The truffle is rich in proteins and low in fat, it also contains important minerals such as magnesium, calcium and potassium and natural antioxidants that act against aging.
Being cholesterol-free, truffles are helpful for cardiovascular activity, while magnesium helps eliminate toxic substances through the kidneys on which it exerts a stimulating action. In cases of liver disease, gravel or allergies, however, it is not recommended to eat truffles and it is better to consult your doctor if you intend to do so.
The rarity of truffles is linked to the fact that their growth depends on geographical, environmental and seasonal factors. Returning for a moment to the initial question of what truffles are, it is easier to understand why: the truffle is a mushroom and, like all mushrooms, it is the enemy of the low rainy seasons and the arch enemy of drought.
Nowadays truffles are harvested by hand after being identified underground usually with the help of dogs (called truffles dogs) but, in the past, they were found with the help of small pigs, due to their highly developed sense of smell. The penetrating and persistent smell of the truffle develops when it is fully ripe and has the purpose of attracting wild animals that digging underground allow to spread the truffle spores that propagate the species.
The truffle has been cultivated for some time now, but without great results for the most valuable types.
I have a friend who has a truffle dog and she told me they need to train him all year long using truffle spray sprayed on toys so the dog must play a sort of treasure hunt in the woods and find the toy.
This “game” sharpens the dog’s sense of smell when it comes to truffles.
When the season is right, that is from September to about November, they go “hunting” for truffles with the dog in the woods at night and the reason why nocturnal research is often preferred is linked to the humidity rate of the air, a characteristic that is typical of the hours right before dawn. In such conditions the dog's sense of smell will be at its peak and even the slightest emanation will be easily grasped.
