Unlike in America, where Halloween is almost a month long celebration which brings kids and adults to gather and participate in costume parties and competitions, Halloween in Italy is only a celebration for kids and themed events are held exclusively on the evening/night of October 31st.
Also, while in America Halloween is basically a carnival in which any costume and theme goes, in Italy Halloween has maintained a strictly “scary, somber and macabre” theme.
Some people buy pumpkins on Halloween in Italy now
But the true traditional holidays – which are also bank holidays in Italy – are November 1st and November 2nd, respectively All Saints’ Day and the Day of the Dead.
November 2ndin particular, the dead are commemorated in different ways and the way is determined by the single families, regional differences and faith. It is the day Catholic Christians pay homage to the dead.
On the night between the 1st and 2nd of November, many families choose to put a glass of fresh water in the kitchen to quench the thirst of the dead, while others leave a light on overnight, together with a bucket of water and a little bread on the windowsill for the spirits of their ancestors.
In Liguria, boiled chestnuts are usually also eaten on this day and some leave a plate around for the spirits as well.
Many years ago, on the night of November 1st, children used to go from house to house, just like they do now on Halloween night, to receive the so-called ‘ben dei morti’ (the dead’s bequest) which consisted of broad beans, boiled chestnuts and dried figs. After saying their prayers, their grandparents told them scary stories and legends and spent the night with them feasting on the ‘ben dei morti.’
This tradition, originally from neighboring Tuscany, ‘migrated’ to Liguria as well becoming a ritual for us as well.
Some shops years ago when I was a child, also used to prepare and sell sweets in the shape of broad beans but nowadays I haven’t seen them anywhere.
Some families, instead of leaving the light on, place as many candles lit on the windowsill as there are dear souls in heaven waiting for them.
It seems that the tradition of carving pumpkins and inserting a candle inside to use them as lanterns was born at the same time as this Catholic tradition.
Similarly to what now people do in Mexico to celebrate the Dia de los Muertos, a few decades ago people here used to have a meal near the tombs of their loved ones.
Throughout Liguria, November 2nd, has always been celebrated in different forms, from small rites to real reception rituals based on the belief that the dead returned to life on that date, to visit places , see their things as well as friends and family of their earthly life.
Some sweets made of sugar and almonds (or sometimes hazelnuts) in the shape of the bones of the dead are common sweets to eat around the beginning of November as well as marzipan.
Nowadays, not many people follow such traditions anymore but it is a day of remembrance nonetheless and many public events such as parades are organized for remembering soldiers who passed during the two world wars.
Flowers are usually placed on the tombs of loved ones and many people, having the day off, visit the cemeteries on this day.
I like to think it is a day which unites the afterlife and life.
