Compared to the Japanese, who live to work, the Italians certainly seem like a carefree people who love their wine, jokes, and music. The truth, however, is that the climate differs markedly in Northern and Southern Italy, which results in major differences in lifestyle and temperament as well. Milan in particular, which is not only in the north but also inland, is a bustling commercial center where people live fast-paced lives.
Not long after I first moved to Milan, an Italian coworker told me that being punctual was the key to doing business there—something that was unique among Italian cities and that most Italians didn’t understand. As a Japanese, I thought that being on time for professional obligations was a given, and ended up bursting out laughing. It actually made me wonder just how late the Italians I was going to be involved with would be, and I started having concerns about my future life in the country.
After being cooped up in an office working all week, the typical Milanese pattern is to escape to the oceans, mountains, or lake to get out of the city on the weekends. I ended up adopting their routine and heading out to the countryside on the weekends as well—but I’m starting to wonder whether the place I picked is too far away…
It’s a small medieval village on the Adriatic Sea called Torre di Palme, 440 kilometers from Milan. Perched atop a hill, the name literally translates to Palm Tower. There are only 670 residents. Despite the fact that the hilltop offers broad vistas of the Adriatic Sea, coastal pine forests, the tiny port of San Giorgio, and countless other hills, it’s not a place that’s very well-known to tourists.
Torre di Palme is located in the province of Fermo, within the Marche region. Fermo means “stationary” in Italian. It comes from the Latin word for “faithful,” which it is said to have gotten because of the region’s faithfulness to the Roman Empire. Maybe that’s why Torre di Palme, which has such a character of independence, has clashed with Fermo so often. All of my coworkers who grew up in this region are stubborn—so I’m wondering if it has something to do with the regional character.
Just coming into the village brings on an overwhelming sense of relaxation and makes you eager to stay here—probably because of the striking uniformity of the architecture and how carefully they tend to their environment. There are still medieval towns of all sizes scattered about Italy, but Torre di Palme in particular has the feeling of being a hideaway. Famous singers and musicians have been known to hole up here when they’re not working in Milan to work secretly on their upcoming creations. I can certainly see why, given how physically and mentally refreshing it is to be out here and how fresh and inspiring the simple, yet delicious cuisine is—so different than what you get in Milan.
Even though artists may seem preoccupied with wine, jokes, and music, they must still need to get away from the daily struggle of trying to give birth to their masterpieces by relaxing in a place like Torre di Palme.
And yes—I think you can say that all Italians are artists at heart.
